There isn’t really a correlation between Sigrid Nunez’s novel and food. The narrator is as detached from what she eats as she is from the people surrounding her, and though there are scenes where food is involved, they never play a definitive role. However, despite her reluctance, the unnamed narrator is a stand-up character, ready when you need her. And it is this quality that made me think of one of the most practical skills in any cook’s repertoire—the ability to make very basic, but flavorful, long-grain rice. And for this we need to look to the East…
This is a recipe for Iranian rice. Indians use a much different method. Theirs is very tasty, too, but different. And I don’t know how to make it. What I know, I learned from my mother-in-law when I lived in Iran. Bea, I’ll call her, because the letter beh in Farsi is the first letter of her name. Bea was renowned throughout the extended family for her mastery of Iranian cuisine. A gentle woman, yet strong and commanding, Bea’s kitchen moved at a steady trot. Nothing frantic, rather a relentless series of tasks performed to feed a family of twelve, plus guests—and Iranians love to welcome guests to their sofrehs.*
The ability to make rice is essential for an Iranian cook. Good rice is the essence of the cuisine. Soggy rice, soupy rice, sticky rice, simply will not do. The final product must have long and flaky kernels that separate easily with a fork.
There are three basic methods of cooking rice in Iran: Kateh, Pohlo, and Chelo. Chelo has no tahdig, or crispy bottom, and it is usually eaten with kebob in restaurants. Pohlo is very technical and taught after mastering kateh. So, I will begin there.
Just a couple of things to know before you start:
White Basmati rice imported from India is a must. It is aged to decrease moisture content and produces those long and flaky kernels with a heady, nutty scent and a hint of Himalayan smoke.** Another essential is a nonstick sauce pan. After years and years of searching and making do with what I could find, I finally discovered this 2 Quart GreenPan. It is the perfect size for four generous servings of rice.
Finally, be kind to yourself. Good rice takes patience and practice.
Kateh
1 ½ cup Basmati white rice
3 cups water
1 ½ to 2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ cup butter
Measure the rice into the pan then wash it under cold water. Bea used to say to repeat the process AT LEAST seven times. I always lose count. But never mind, when you think you’ve reached your goal, wash it one more time.
Pour off the last wash, then add the measured water, salt, and butter. Place the pan over high heat and bring it to a roiling boil.
Let the rice boil until nearly all the liquid is gone but plenty of steam still rises from the small pockets that appear.
While the rice is boiling, wrap the lid in a cloth. This keeps the steam in and prevents condensation from forming.
Clamp the lid on the pot. The seal should be firm, allowing no steam to escape. Turn the heat to its lowest setting and let the rice cook for approximately 45 minutes. Resist the temptation to lift the lid. You can take a peek if you feel you must, but it’s best to leave it alone.
When the rice is ready, remove the lid and place a plate over the top of the pan. Now, carefully turn the whole thing upside down. The pan should slip off easily, leaving a golden-brown cake of rice with a firm, crispy surface. This is the tahdig, a buttery, crunchy treat, delicious when softened in sauce. And beneath the tahdig, if your luck holds, should be a bed of flaky, aromatic rice.
Kateh traditionally accompanies khoresht, or vegetable stew. The world of khoreshts is complex. Not unlike Indian curries, they include a myriad of spices and vegetables and are slow-cooked with lamb or chicken depending on the dish. With many more books and characters to explore, no doubt I’ll soon have a chance to introduce several khoreshts and perhaps even a pohlo. But for What Are You Going Through I found that the kateh was very tasty when sprinkled with Aleppo pepper and sumac and served with roast chicken and a glass of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
*Sofreh is the word for tablecloth, but is also used to mean an arrangement of food dishes. Very like the way the way ‘table’ is sometimes employed in English.
**Imported basmati rice can be found at Indian and Middle Eastern grocers. Costco also carries a very decent brand, though it comes in 20 pound bags.
Beautiful narrative! Although I always make Pohlo with basmati rice, this recipe sounds so delicious that I should give Kateh a try! Thank you...
Wow... love this! I'm so glad to read it. Thanks for sharing!